10:30am - 11:30am you can put money on the Nor’easter blowing in. We planned all morning to convene at 10 and load the boards, newly acquired housing, and wetsuit tops.
It was like a dream, 2ft offshore, Tuesday morning, no-one out. We loaded the boards at 10:30 and headed down to a secret left reef break - that isnt really secret but no one ever rides it- we pull up in the car park and the wind had come- Devastated! It completely destroyed all hope and waves to smoosh, like a bug under foot
Now what, we had all the gear and no waves. We commenced to paddle from one side of the bay to the other, as the sun was still blaring. We paddled the open sea on logs, for 20-30 minutes. Arms were aching, faces were sun kissed.
We made it to the beach and to our surprise there was nothing- we walked back to the cars - burnt face, feet and crushed dreams. “At least the photos look rad” one of us would later say
Words by Ben DiDonato
Photos By Alex Tracey